November 1 is Reclamation Day

There was only one sign for pumpkin spice anything, and it was at the train station in Rome. Starbucks, of course, and my apologies to all who love the fall-themed brew. But then there was the Trick or Treat sign on the Irish pub (!) in my Italian town of Sulmona. It was jarring. Halloween hasn’t yet come to Italy…

SMPE

Sulmo Mihi Patria Est The poet Ovid said this about a million years ago: Sulmona is my fatherland. There is evidence of his life all around the city of Sulmona in Abruzzo. It makes me happy to be in a place that recognizes the importance of letters and poetry. Ovid watches everything from Piazza XX Settembre Regular readers will know…

2023: A Pivot

The time has come, the walrus said, to talk of many things . . .   How much we’ve learned since we started running these tours back in 2004 (unofficially) and then, more officially, in 2009. It all started with a trip to Florence with some friends in 2000, and I was hooked on Italy. Over the years, Tim and…

The Joy of Abruzzissimo!

Nine issues in, and I have been remiss. Of course, I don’t even know what day it is most weeks and time has lost all meaning, so I won’t be too hard on myself. Anna, at work   But here’s the story: early into the lockdown in 2020, I got an e-mail from a friend in far-away Abruzzo. Anna is also…
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The View, Seven Months Out . . .

My head has been a bit cloudy these past months — how about you? Dealing with a global pandemic plays a big part, to be sure. We were locked down for a while, and we miss our family and friends and our routine. We are wearing masks, social distancing, washing our hands and still using (and cleaning with) sanitizers. We…

Thoughts on Leadership in a Time of Crisis

You don’t make the timeline, the virus makes the timeline — Dr. Anthony Fauci In other times, my suitcase would be fully packed by now for an April 8 departure to Rome. In other times, I would have a full schedule of things on my itinerary to show you: fantastic restaurants; cooking classes with friends; wine tastings with some of…

Almost Losing it in Rome

Italy has changed. But Rome is Rome. – Robert De Niro   At first, I hated Rome. Too many tourists, too many noisy Vespas, too many waiters trying to lure me into mediocre restaurants, too many things to see in one lifetime . . . just too, too much! I always said that if I wanted to be in a…

Walking in Abruzzo

The 19th-century Italian diplomat and journalist Primo Levi said that the adjectives “forte e gentile” (strong and gentle) best describe the beauty of Abruzzo and the character of its people…   I am always enamored by folks who are as crazy about Abruzzo as I am. So when I was offered a chance to read and review Stuart Haines’ new…

March-ing In

Italy, and the spring and first love all together should suffice to make the gloomiest person happy. — Bertrand Russell About this time every year, I start to get antsy. I drag out the suitcase and start making piles of the things I plan to bring to Italy in May, just about six weeks away. I can’t help myself. When…

Staying Put in Trastevere

How is it possible to say an unkind or irreverential word of Rome? The city of all time, and of all the world!  Nathaniel Hawthorne It was time for our last two nights in Italy after an unusually long five-week stay, and we chose to spend them in Rome. I reserved a fantastic-looking, very hip apartment for us in the…

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FROM THE BLOG

November 1 is Reclamation Day

There was only one sign for pumpkin spice anything, and it was at the train station in Rome. Starbucks, of course, and my apologies to all who love the fall-themed brew. But then there was the Trick or Treat sign on the Irish pub (!) in my Italian town of Sulmona. It was jarring. Halloween hasn’t yet come to Italy in a big way, and that’s fine with me. Call me a grump. Because the rest of the year (as most of you know) I live in Salem, Massachusetts where, over the past 20 years, Halloween starts in early September and runs through mid-November. The crowds are staggering – nearly one million people come into town on Halloween weekend alone.…

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