The first condition of understanding a foreign country is to smell it. – Rudyard Kipling
It’s happened to Tim twice — once in Paris and once in Crete. Following his nose through the town, street by street, smell by smell, until he located the source. Dinner? Garlic, always. Large quantities of rosemary. A little lamb. Wondrously flavorful sauce. Fresh bread. Wine, of course. What more does one need to understand a foreign country, really?
Beansies, aka The Michigan, at Burlington's Battery Park
Well, probably a lot more, but it makes a great story. And it’s true. In Paris, he was befriended by a fellow from Norway who accompanied him one Sunday, when most places were closed, on their gastronomic odyssey through town. Later, in a small village in Crete, he was traveling with a girlfriend, and together they discovered a tiny family-run restaurant where Mama served them the only thing on the menu — a foil-wrapped bowl of exquisite lamb stew. When they slowly peeled the foil off their crocks, they got a rich, hot faceful of steaming sensational. It is these memories that stick. That girlfriend is long gone (thankfully, for me!) but the aroma is still very much embedded in Tim’s nostrils.
The best fries in town
I have had similar experiences and so, probably, have you. So I want to share some recent culinary encounters to remind you that writing about food is an important part of writing about travel. Think about it: what do you eat “over there” that you wouldn’t dream of eating here? Where do you eat when you’re on the road and don’t have a lot of time? Are you drawn towards the national or local dishes or do you stick with what you know? Eating — whether in a foreign language or in a regional dialect — is an adventure in itself. Bon apetit!
In the back at Two Amy's Pizza in D.C. — or is it Tuscany?
Stateside, in Burlington, Vermont, are two absolute gems. Not gourmet, perhaps, but they’re certainly unique eating experiences. Al’s French Fry on Williston Road in So. Burlington has been the go-to place for outrageous spuds since it first opened its doors the 1940s. Today Al’s is housed in a red, white and black diner-style building which sports curved glass brick walls and shiny red barstools — and it serves a lot more than fries. Jump onto their website and listen to the jingle . . . you’ll wish you were there.
Summers in Burlington mark the arrival of Beansie’s (The Michigan, to those of us in the know).Once the yellow school bus pulls into Burlington’s Battery Park — right on the banks of beautiful Lake Champlain — residents know that it’s time for the most unusual fast food experience in the area. Pick a nice day and mosey on up to the window to order burgers, dogs and great fries (Burlington is blessed with an abundance of good potato preparers). Then take your cardboard tray over to the wall and watch the trees go by across the lake in New York State. Even better, stay for the sunset. There’s nothing like it.
Thank you, Chef Pierre!
If you’re in Washington, D.C., head to Two Amy’s Pizza over on Macomber Street NW, in the shadow of the National Cathedral. A tiny place, Two Amy’s is known throughout the city for it’s pizza, but has a lot more than that going for it. If you’re sans the kiddoes, go straight to the back of the restaurant and turn right. You’ll find a small bar — but not the kind you think. Take a seat and ask for one of the “small plate” menus. The offerings change every day and can include all kinds of rare cheeses and olives, rice balls, smoked meats, bean surprises and heaven knows what else. Real Italian appetizers in — if there were such a thing — a smart Italian deli setting. Wash it all down with a glass of superb red wine, be sure to get plenty of crusty bread to sop up the olive oil and you might even forget you have to go through the world’s snarkiest traffic to get back home.
The once ubiquitous sign
For dessert, we in central Virginia are blessed with the creation of two renegade New Yorkers — The Desserterie, lead by Pastry Chef Pierre Tocco. Located in Harbourside Centre Loop (off Hull Street Road) in Midlothian, The Desserterie is one of the few very good gelaterias around. And its Lavazza coffee and desserts — cookies, tarts, cakes — are now joined by a few delicious soup and salad offerings each day, as well. Chef Pierre is known for his custom wedding and special occasion cake creations — just look at what he did for my book launch party!
Spinach pasta with wild funghi . . . on Lake Como
For those of you old enough to remember, we Americans of a certain age used to flock to Ho-Jos. Friday night was the All-You-Can-Eat Fish Fry (I think it was $2.99) and it was a family favorite. Well, Tim and I were driving in upstate New York last Spring and were overcome by hunger. How could we resist this sign? Yup — we went in and it was like a time warp. Comfort food and the best coffee ice cream around. Nice.
Heavenly fish and potatoes . . . on Lake Como
In Italy, things are different. While I will settle for a quick cornetto for breakfast and a panini caprese on the road if I have to, let’s face it — I’m there for the food. Most recently, I was at the Ristorante Imbarcadero on piazza Cavour in Como, overlooking the lake. Paolo, our affable and knowledgeable waiter made suggestions for lunch that were out of this world. Hand made pastas with fresh sauces, a fish and potato dish that was so simple and flavorful, it almost made you weep. And I experienced my first semifreddo — a soft pistachio ice cream concoction with rich dark chocolate sauce that should be its own food group.
My beautiful semifreddo
In Milan, I ordered a vegetarian lunch which (of course) came in two stages: first, a beautiful tagliatelle in a subtle pink sauce and then a grilled vegetable platter with a lightly fried pungent cheese on top. I tell you, I could do this for a living.
Who needs meat?
So, don’t forget the food when you journal. It’s part of the culture of the place as well as what will keep you going. Talk about food at the markets, in the grocery stores, with your waiters . . . you’ll come away with much more than a meal. You’ll get a story. Share it with us.
Buon viaggio!
Linda Dini Jenkins is a card-carrying Italophile, travel planner, freelance writer, and amateur photographer. Travel is her passion, so writing about her travels just comes naturally. She hopes all her travelers find a way to express their joys, surprises, and fears as they travel and gives every traveler a nifty journal to help smooth the way. Learn more…
