In Utah: Behind the Zion Curtain — (I can’t take credit)

I apologize for the radio silence. January was a trying month. Some friends rented our places in Sulmona to avoid being in the USofA to witness the events of January 20^th and we treated them to an earthquake, a massive snowstorm and a nearby avalanche. They’re still talking to us, but it’s harrowing to hear these things from thousands of miles away and feel utterly helpless. Thankfully, our “Italian family” kicked into action and made a very enjoyable week for them, despite not being able to move their car for the duration. They even had to buy a snow shovel.

Then, of course, there was January 20^th, about which I shall not speak here.

Early February found Tim and me and his mother in Park City, Utah, where we met up with his sister who had arranged for us to stay in her friend’s gorgeous condo in Deer Valley. Luxury. It took us two days to figure out how to turn on the showers (they were all different, with multiple showerheads in each one) and we’re still not really sure how the light switches work, but it’s the closest thing to an Architectural Digest-quality habitation that I’ll ever get to! Of course, while it was snowing like the dickens back East here, Utah received just a few inches of new stuff while were were there, and reached temps of nearly 50 degrees for most of the week. No. Climate. Change. Wait. What?

Off to the slopes with Fi!

There were many highlights to the trip, the biggest being that Tim got to celebrate his big “0” birthday the way he wanted to – on the slopes with his sister and niece (nephew was working). It’s not every day you get to ski with Olympians . . . He survived 17 runs in one day and was only mildly uncomfortable the next. Thank God for Aleve and hot tubs.

This area of the country is so beautiful that it’s almost unfair. We drove over to Sundance, up to Solitude, down to Salt Lake City and meandered a few times on Park City’s very chic Main Street. On the mountainsides we saw four moose and several herd of elk. (In fact, traffic was stopped in both directions on I-80 for two hours one morning to “relocate” a herd of elk.) On Main Street, the restaurants were wonderful and the shopping was great. So many artisans doing so many interesting things. From June – September, you’ll find the Park Silly Sunday Market, an outdoor emporium of artists, gourmet food stands, farmers and entertainers. But even with snow on the ground, Main Street has its own special charm.

And speaking of a special kind of charm, Tim’s sister took us to the Road

The Road Island Diner!

Island Diner —  “Justly Famous Since 1939” —  a classic Streamline Moderne Art Deco “diner car” restaurant located in the somewhat remote mountain city of Oakley. (His sister drives over there for the peace and quiet.) What a trip!

The original history of the place reads as follows . . .

In 1939 the nation’s leading diner manufacturer, the Jerry O’Mahony Co. of Elizabeth, New Jersey, rolled out of its factory diner number #1107 which it touted as its largest deluxe model complete with chrome glass showcased green Italian Marble countertops, Tiffany glass clerestory windows in a monitor style roof and hand laid quarry tiled flooring. The company showcased its creation in the 1939 New York World’s fair.

 After the Fair, diner aficionado Al McDermott purchased the streamlined-styled Art-Deco diner and had it towed to Fall River, Mass. where it operated with great success for 14 years. His moniker was “Justly Famous Since 1939”.

 Looking to serve more customers in Fall River, Al Mac purchased a larger Deraffle diner in 1953 where it still operates today.

 The O’Mahony was sold that year to a Greek immigrant, Tommy Borodemus, who was looking to expand out of his 15 stool 1936 Worchester lunch wagon which he had purchased with the $600 New Deal bonus offered to WWI veterans by FDR to counteract the effects of the great depression. Borodemus had the diner moved to the nearby seaside town of Middletown, R.I and renamed it “Tommy’s Deluxe Diner”.

 The Borodemus family opened the diner to much fanfare and passed down its operations for four generations. Countless memories were generated for the family and its patrons over the years. The diner was featured in many TV spots and on Charles Osgood’s CBS Sunday Morning, in 2006. With mounting competition from fast food outlets and restaurant chains, the family decided to sell the property to the Tim Horton donut chain.

A search began for a deserving home for this rare piece of Americana. Although other cities were considered, Oakley, Utah, was offered to preserve the diner’s history.

 In May of 2007, the diner was transported across the country weaving its way through designated back roads complete with state police escorts and pilot cars. It arrived in Oakley in mid July and began its complete restoration. Unlike the few remaining diners still operating on the east coast, thankfully little structural and cosmetic changes had occurred over the diner’s 73- year history. Those that did were replicated from old photos. What you see now is what you would have seen in 1939 as this depression-era pre-war diner was wheeled out of the factory.

 The tabletop remote jukeboxes, flat TVs and air conditioning are modern embellishments.

 In honor of this icon’s legacy it was named the “Road Island Diner” because of its origin and the fact that it was placed on the island in the road.

And if you’re interested in seeing the diner’s blueprints, the history of the cross-country trip or the restoration, just ask. There are books and photos galore!

Alex

Current owner Steve Butler and his nephew Alex (our server and alone worth the price of admission) are doing a bang-up job keeping the spirit of the old place alive while offering fantastic, high-quality food (and beer and wine) to match the surroundings. I had a tasty White Tuscan Bean Salad with Homemade Pesto; Tim had an excellent Reuben; and his mom and sister both had the Bullseye Barbecue Pulled Pork Sandwich for which they are rather famous. We shared a nice bottle of Cakewalk Pinot Grigio and they presented Tim with a dessert (hearing that it was his birthday) of a warm apple cake with cinnamon ice cream and a taster of mint ice cream.

This is a destination for anyone who’s going to be in the Salt Lake – Park City area. Getting there is visually stunning, the prices are right, the food is terrific and, well, Alex and Steve are a trip and a half. Steve also owns a catering business, Kumbayah Kitchens. Need I say more?

Thanks, Fi!

This is one of those places that makes you glad you’re part of this crazy human race. Take a stunning ride, have a sandwich and make some new friends.

Buon viaggio!

Linda Dini Jenkins

Linda Dini Jenkins is a card-carrying Italophile, travel planner, freelance writer, and amateur photographer. Travel is her passion, so writing about her travels just comes naturally. She hopes all her travelers find a way to express their joys, surprises, and fears as they travel and gives every traveler a nifty journal to help smooth the way. Learn more…

Writing about a writer’s block is better than not writing at all. — Charles Bukowski

It might seem strange to say that I have writer’s block when, for the first time in my life, I am in the middle of two manuscripts. One is a collection of poetry from my travels around Southern Italy; the other is a memoir about my life-long journey/struggle to finally be “out” as an Italian-American (no, I wasn’t always an Italian).

In recent weeks, I have had a hard time focusing on these projects, what with all the nonsense of our election, of Brexit, of LePen, of Renzi’s gamble, of looming global isolationism . . . and of  the terrible and terrifying news all over the world.

And the losses. Oh, the losses! While we might not have personally known Prince, Alan Rickman, Leonard Cohen, David Bowie, Carrie Fischer, George Michael or any of the other talented folks who left us this year, they put a stamp on our hearts and will be forever missed. As so many people expressed on Facebook over the last 12 months: WTF 2016?!?!?

Finally, we have been traveling a lot — three trips in six weeks — and while they were all for brilliant causes,  this is not a good time of year to be so uprooted, given all the usual seasonal madness that must be attended to.

Cooking class at Hotel Ovidio, Sulmona

In any case, I have stopped and started, stopped and started, stopped and started and finally decided to just admit it. But when words won’t come, sometimes pictures and memories can be good inspiration.

Tim and I were incredibly lucky this year: we got to resettle his mother close to us, and that seems to be working out very well for all of us. We made two trips to Italy — two tours, and then time on our own after each — which went swimmingly. We were thrilled to introduce a few of our good friends to the pleasures of Abruzzo as a whole, and to Sulmona specifically. Over the five years that we have been traveling to this region, we have made many strong friendships and leaving there is always an emotional parting.

Our little Maxine

On the flip side, Tim and I were incredibly unlucky this year: in February, just two days before Tim’s birthday, we had to say goodbye to the love of our lives, our little Maxine. She was 15 years old and not a day has gone by since that we don’t think of her. The tears still come, but I think we are both getting ready to look for another little doggie. Watch this space for the happy announcement.

So what will 2017 bring us? I hope it brings me my words again. I hope we can complete the two tours we have planned for you — one to Southern Italy (Sulmona, the Adriatic Coast and Matera) and the other to Northern Italy (Vicenza and Venice). And I hope the global situation won’t be as dire as it looks at the moment.

I pray that cooler heads will prevail, that we will all find the better angels of our nature, that compromise and cooperation will make a comeback and that we can learn to be good to one another, despite all the evidence to the contrary.

In this final week of 2016, truly an annus horibilis in so many ways, I wish you a joyous and peaceful New Year filled with friendship, love, good food and great travels.

Buon capodanno!

Buon viaggio!

Linda Dini Jenkins

Linda Dini Jenkins is a card-carrying Italophile, travel planner, freelance writer, and amateur photographer. Travel is her passion, so writing about her travels just comes naturally. She hopes all her travelers find a way to express their joys, surprises, and fears as they travel and gives every traveler a nifty journal to help smooth the way. Learn more…

May 2 – 11, 2017
A fantastic 8-day journey to three select
Southern Italian cities

We’ll spend three nights in Sulmona for a true taste of Cucina Abruzzese, while we eat and drink from the local bounty, explore medieval hill towns and cook arrosticini on the plain in the shadow of the Gran Sasso.

Then we’ll drive down the Adriatic coast for a two-night visit to Trani, the beautiful and historic fishing port that’s often called the “Pearl of Puglia.”

Finally, we’ll venture inland to the incredible “cave” city of Matera and spend three luxurious nights in this unique troglodyte city and see first-hand how artists and entrepreneurs are transforming this UNESCO World Heritage Site.

All breakfasts, guided tours, ground transportation and most meals included for $2750. Airfare extra.

Here’s just a taste of the itinerary . . .

In Abruzzo:

• Wine tasting at Abruzzo’s oldest winery
• Tour of the Medici city of Santo Stefano
• Easy hike to Roccacalascio, the ancient ruined castle providing a breathtaking view of the Apennines
• BBQ lunch on Italy’s “Little Tibet”
• Visit to Pelino Confetti Museum & store
• Optional hike to Eremo di San’Onofrio

In Puglia:

• Visit to waterfront: cathedrals, villa communale
• Tour of local winery
• Visit to see the unique trulli structures

In Basilicata:

• Private day-long tour of Matera, the 8,000-year-old sassi city
• Visit to Matera’s incredible sculpture garden
• Visit to some of Matera’s artisan-entrepreneurs

Includes fine hotels, aperitivi experiences, all breakfasts, five lunches and four dinners.

This trip is limited to 6 travelers, so please send a $500 non-refundable deposit by January 1, 2017 to reserve. Contact me at linda@travelthewriteway.com for details.

Buon viaggio!

Linda Dini Jenkins

Linda Dini Jenkins is a card-carrying Italophile, travel planner, freelance writer, and amateur photographer. Travel is her passion, so writing about her travels just comes naturally. She hopes all her travelers find a way to express their joys, surprises, and fears as they travel and gives every traveler a nifty journal to help smooth the way. Learn more…

The Owl and the Pussy-cat went to sea
In a beautiful pea-green boat,
They took some honey, and plenty of money,
Wrapped up in a five-pound note — Edward Lear

A word about journaling in poetry:

With the 2007 publication of the anthology Deep Travel: Contemporary American Poets Abroad, interest in travel poetry has increased in writing circles. But travel poetry has, of course, been around for thousands of years. The Odyssey, Canterbury Tales and Divine Comedy can all be considered travel poetry. And sometimes your recollections and observations just naturally seem to fall more easily into a poetic form than into prose.

Here’s an example from my very first Italian villa rental experience. I could have just jotted down, “The group had breakfast in the kitchen. The sun was shining. We decided not to go anywhere today and I did the laundry.” Instead, this is what evolved from my notes:

Abbondanza[1]

We sit at the kitchen table in the morning

Drinking the juice of mangoes and blood oranges

Eating creamy yogurt out of chipped white porcelain cups

Planning our day, as if we needed anything more than this

The early sun and strong black coffee are enough

The easy laughter and deep breathing are enough

Flowering magnolias and the scent of wild jasmine are enough

Anticipation and memory are enough

Today, we agree, we will go nowhere

Because for now, everything we need is right here

In the warm June breezes of plenty

Laundry dancing in the yard

These 12 lines have incorporated myriad details, some action and lots of emotion into a story about deciding not to do anything that day. And it gives the reader (and the writer) a valuable memory of the experience. I highly recommend that you try this at least once, even if you think you’re not a poet or think you don’t even like poetry very much. It’s a useful form, especially as an extension of the journaling process.

What’s next?

Place is a powerful force, and we’re all drawn to different kinds of places for different reasons. At the same time, travel is such a rich experience that, whether we go across town or across an ocean, we are always the better for it. We always learn something and we can make new discoveries and even new friends along the way. So write about your travel experiences. Use your journal to capture who you are in the moment. Use your words and drawings and photos to bridge back to the emotions you experience along the way. Share them if you want to.

Start by getting a blank book that sings to you. If you’d like to do some more reading before getting started, here are a few suggestions:

• Writing Away: a creative guide to awakening the journal-writing traveler by Lavinia Spalding
• The Mindful Traveler: A Guide to Journaling and Transformative Travel by Jim Currie
• Globejotting: How to Write Extraordinary Travel Journals (and still have time to enjoy your trip) by Dave Fox

Whether you share your journal with others or keep it strictly for yourself, I guarantee that this will be a worthwhile endeavor. You’ll be able to not only answer the question, “How was your trip?” but you’ll be able to answer the bigger question, “Who are you?”

Here’s a 10-minute writing exercise to get you started…

Think about a trip you have taken or a place (not home) that you’ve recently spent time in. Then do at least one of these:

• Write about a room that you stayed in
• Write about what it’s like for you not to be home
• When you’re on the road, when do you feel most yourself? Write about that.
• Write five words, phrases, sentences that might lead to a travel poem. Try to write that.

Buon viaggio!

[1] © 2009 Linda Dini Jenkins, Up at the Villa: Travels with my Husband

Linda Dini Jenkins

Linda Dini Jenkins is a card-carrying Italophile, travel planner, freelance writer, and amateur photographer. Travel is her passion, so writing about her travels just comes naturally. She hopes all her travelers find a way to express their joys, surprises, and fears as they travel and gives every traveler a nifty journal to help smooth the way. Learn more…

I never travel without my diary. One should always have something sensational to read in the train. — Oscar Wilde

Where do you go? Are you drawn to big cities, wildly rural areas or something in between? Is it the hustle of a busy metropolis or a calmer, slower pace that calls to you? And (if you have any these days) what do you like to do in your spare time? Are you a museum crawler, a foodie or is it nature that brings out the best in you? And then there’s my favorite question: domestic travel or Italy?

All these choices say something about who you are. Chances are, you’re not even fully aware of why you make these life-affirming decisions; they’re just second nature to you. But if you’re curious to better understand the places where you find yourself — and your reactions to them —consider keeping a travel journal.

To encourage that, all my travelers on Travel the Write Way tours receive a journal in advance, just to encourage this kind of behavior.

The first question I often get is, “Why? Who is a journal for?” Well, mostly it’s for you. It’s a way to capture the experiences that you have of a particular place. And not just the “If it’s Tuesday, this must be Belgium” kind of experiences. Journaling done right can be the best traveling companion you have, even if you’re just traveling to the next county. But let’s be clear: a good journal is not just a collection of “where” and “what.” A good journal also explores the “how” and the “why” and the “who.”

On the other hand, a journal is also a record that you can either share with friends and family or which (like it or not) might be read by friends and family members long after you’re gone. So why not make it the best, most meaningful, most enjoyable document you can?

What will I write about?

You’re on vacation: you come from somewhere, so how does where you are now differ from home? The difference could be in the language, holidays, shopping habits, meal times, color protocol, currency, ways of showing respect and so much more.

The key thing is to be a keen observer of everything and to use all five senses — sight, smell, taste, touch, hearing — as you go through your day in this new place that is not home. Be a detective of the local culture. Take notes on:

• Why you chose this particular place
• Local transportation: how to get around, what the challenges/opportunities are
• The history of the place
• The architectural style(s)
• Food, especially what’s locally grown and what best represents the region
• The “can’t-miss” events, attractions, restaurants
• A specific adventure
• A specific mishap or embarrassing moment
• People you’ve met
• People you wanted to meet
• Local politics/issues — what are people debating right now?
• Your emotional reactions to the place
• What makes this place different?
• How do you feel here?
• What are you afraid of here?
• What makes you want to stay here?
• What makes you want to leave?

7  Secrets of an Avid Travel Journaler

1. Use a spiral-bound notebook. These can cost anywhere from $1.00 to $25.00+, depending on your taste and budget. Spiral-bound books are easier to manage, fold over, write on, etc. And those school notebooks with pockets are great. You’ll see why later. Just don’t make it too big or heavy or you’ll get discouraged.
2. Write only on the right-hand page. Wasteful? Maybe. But it’s a real boon when you want to go back and add something you forgot or want to elaborate on something you’ve already written – you do that on the left-hand side of the page.
3. What to put in those pockets? Everything! Save receipts, cards from restaurants, ticket stubs, brochures, leaves and flowers, menus, unspent money (if you’re traveling outside the US) — it’s all part of the experience of travel and will help concretize your memories when you go back to flesh out your stories.
4. Be sure to have a few pens and as well as a pencil with an eraser with you at all times — you never know when you’ll want to break out into a drawing. And try not to write with the pencil: that internal editor of yours will probably go to town, and that’s not the point of a journal.
5. Remember to leave room for your photographs. If photography isn’t your thing, buy postcards and include those in your journal. I love to go to local antique shops and look through the old postcard boxes — you’re sure to find a few that resonate with you. And the historical ones make unique additions to your journal!
6. Bring paper clips and a few small plastic sandwich bags with you to better collect and manage your “physical” memories. Nobody needs sand or bugs in their suitcase.
7. Don’t try to get it all down while it’s happening! You don’t want to miss the experience because you’re busy scribbling something down. Take a few notes – key words, location, sensations, etc. and then go back to it later that day or the next. With a few good prompts, you won’t lose anything important.

What should it look like?

That’s entirely up to you. Do you want to sketch on your pages to support your written observations? Great! Do you want to add photography and memorabilia right among the pages? Go for it. Do you want to write in bullet point format or in straight paragraphs or in poetic forms? It’s for you — do what you want. Travel writer Dave Fox says it best: Write like nobody’s looking.

And remember that most travel journals are drafts. They’re not supposed to be perfect. There will be rambling ideas, misspellings, ungrammatical sentences — that’s okay. Travel journals provide a way to capture the ideas, impressions, events, experiences, emotions and information that will trigger your memory so you can go back at a later time and tell the whole story. Don’t spend so much time writing “in the moment” that you miss the moment.

Make your journal yours. So if you want to spend a week writing about and photographing all the funny and ridiculous signage you see, be my guest. (One of my favorite signs in Vermont told me to “BEGIN NO PARKING.” I drove right on, obviously honoring the intent of the sign.) And don’t forget how easy it is now to record snippets of video and audio — those are great ways to capture scenes and sounds that you can go back and write about later or share in an e-mail or online version of your journal.

Next week: Part II — journaling in poetic form and more…

Buon viaggio — and don’t forget to write!

Linda Dini Jenkins

Linda Dini Jenkins is a card-carrying Italophile, travel planner, freelance writer, and amateur photographer. Travel is her passion, so writing about her travels just comes naturally. She hopes all her travelers find a way to express their joys, surprises, and fears as they travel and gives every traveler a nifty journal to help smooth the way. Learn more…

If you’ve got a plot the size of a car or a tiny yard in Italy, you’re going to be growing tomatoes and basil and celery and carrots, and everybody is still connected to the land — Frances Mayes

May 2 – May 11, 2017

I am so pleased to announce the dates for a fantastic 8-day excursion to three select cities of the mezzogiorno:

• In Abruzzo: Sulmona
• In Puglia: Trani
• In Basilicata: Matera

See the mezzogiorno (southern Italy) in all its glory . . .

We’ll spend three nights in Sulmona for a true taste of Cucina Abruzzese, while we eat and drink from the local bounty, explore medieval hill towns and climb up to the highest point in the Apennine.

Then we’ll drive down the Adriatic coast for a two-night visit to Trani, the beautiful and historic fishing port that’s often called the “Pearl of Puglia.”

Finally, we’ll venture inland to the incredible “cave” city of Matera and spend three nights in this unique troglodyte city and see first-hand how artists and entrepreneurs are transforming it.

All breakfasts, guided tours, ground transportation and most meals included for $2750. Airfare extra.

This trip has limited space, so please send a $500 non-refundable deposit by January 1, 2017 to reserve. Contact me at linda@travelthewriteway.com for details.

Watch www.travelthewriteway.com/tours-to-Italy as the itinerary comes together.

Linda Dini Jenkins

Linda Dini Jenkins is a card-carrying Italophile, travel planner, freelance writer, and amateur photographer. Travel is her passion, so writing about her travels just comes naturally. She hopes all her travelers find a way to express their joys, surprises, and fears as they travel and gives every traveler a nifty journal to help smooth the way. Learn more…

If you don’t know where you’re going, any road will take you there — George Harrison

There are a lot of guide books out there, but I have always liked what Lonely Planet guides have to offer. The company was launched 40+ years ago by two crazy kids who got married and, for their honeymoon, decided to cross Europe and Asia and end up in Australia. On a very slim shoestring. And then they wrote about it. Today, the company has been bought and sold twice, but still manages to maintain its edge of writing about — and encouraging travel to — some off-beat locations and authentic experiences. And those two crazy kids — Tony and Maureen Wheeler — are still very much involved.

I have just been given the fourth edition of Lonely Planet’s Discover Italy (Top Sights, Authentic Experiences) guide, and I thought I’d say a few words about it. A quick perusal of the Lonely Planet website, and you’ll see the empire that this company has become. They have all kinds of travel guides for all kinds of travelers, plus so much more: links to special tour experiences, travel insurance options, digital chapters, apps, e-books and so on.

But when somebody gives me a book about Italy, I dive right in. Discover Italy is a well-organized, beautiful pictorial guide for someone who knows what they want to see in Italy. It covers in text, maps, and photos what it calls “Italy’s Top 12” areas: Rome, Florence, Tuscany, Cinque Terre, Assisi, Venice, Milan, the Lake District, Naples, Pompeii, Amalfi Coast, and Sicily.  Even better, it provides some actual itineraries for travelers to take, either by public transportation or by driving themselves. The “If You Like” and “Month by Month” pages help travelers pin down things they shouldn’t miss and when they should book their travel.

And here’s where some of the off-the-beaten track stuff comes in. Everybody knows about Carnevale in Venice in February, but did you know that in January, you can see the Regatta of the Befana (witches) – the gondoliers in drag? (See why here . . .) Or that in April the city of Milan hosts the world’s most prestigious furniture fair? How about Tuscany’s Chianti Classico Expo in September? Well, now you know.

And if you need to get inspired to go to Italy, Lonely Planet offers that too, with a page of books, movies and music to get you in the mood. As if . . .

This is a book that will help you tailor your travel according to your interests and needs. Of course there’s a section on travel with the family, and lots of insider tips about how to save money and time and how to get around like a local. It provides all the usual essential information (hours, fees, websites, transportation tips) as well as reviews for eating, sight-seeing and shopping on a few different budget levels. And on almost every page, you’ll find a “Top Tip,” “Did You Know?,” or “Don’t Miss” suggestion to make your experience even richer.

I particularly like the “In Focus” section which takes on topics like “Italy Today,” “The Italian Table” and “Lifestyle” as well as providing a good overview of Italian history. There’s also an invaluable “Survival Guide” and a great pull-out map of Rome (in the printed guide).

So, as I always say, go to Italy. Figure out what you want to see and get this guide to help plan a magnificent trip.

My only negative about this edition of Discover Italy? It completely left out my beloved mezzogiorno – Southern Italy. Especially Abruzzo and Puglia, which are very hot tourist destinations right now. Maybe that will change in the next edition — or maybe Lonely Planet will update its guide to the southern regions by including Abruzzo. I’ll be watching!

Buon viaggio!

Linda Dini Jenkins

Linda Dini Jenkins is a card-carrying Italophile, travel planner, freelance writer, and amateur photographer. Travel is her passion, so writing about her travels just comes naturally. She hopes all her travelers find a way to express their joys, surprises, and fears as they travel and gives every traveler a nifty journal to help smooth the way. Learn more…

I like on the table,/when we’re speaking,

the light of a bottle/of intelligent wine. — Pablo Neruda

If you’ve been to our house in the last three years, chances are you’ve had a glass of wine or two from the Abruzzese winery called Pietrantonj. Because three years ago is when we discovered we were madly in love with the region, bought an apartment there (in Sulmona) with our friends Lou and Vicky, and dove head-first into all things regional. One of our first discoveries was the wine.

Here in the USA, we have come across whites called “trebbiano” and reds called “montepulciano.” But the trebbianos are often just passable blends of whites from a variety of regions and the montepulciano – if you’re not careful – is not from Abruzzo at all, but from the village of Montepulciano in Tuscany. Our Sulmonese friends taught us about Montepulciano d’Abruzzo and introduced us to some of the finest wineries in the area. My favorite winery, hands-down, is Pietrantonj (pronounce the “J”: like an “I”).

Located in the heart of the Peligna Valley, less than 30 minutes from our apartment, is this most ancient winery in Abruzzo. Their vineyards lie between the villages of Vittorito and Corfinio and this valley has been famous for making wine since Roman times. Pietrantonj has been a family run operation for more than 200 years and is today managed by members of the eighth generation of the family. Our new friends Roberta and Alicia Pietrantonj take very good care of the operation — and us, when we are there. Roberta is usually the “front of the house” person, with the marketing, tour and sales responsibilities. Her sister Alicia is a degreed viticulturist, a wine scientist who knows everything there is to know about soil, temperature, growing conditions, grape varieties, potential pests and disasters — like the one that happened earlier this year when a false spring was followed by a quick freeze.

Take a tour with either of them and you’ll be charmed by the story of their family’s dedicated to maintaining the ancient wine-making methodologies while remaining on the cutting edge of their craft. Here’s how they write about themselves, being so proud of their history:

The grapes are picked when they have reached the perfect peak of ripeness and exhibit an ideal balance between sugars and acids, thus ensuring that they will express to the fullest the varietal characteristics of the grape and of their individual growing area. The following step of vinification takes place immediately, in the estate cellars, in a careful process that [wisely] combines tradition with innovation. The respect for tradition and extreme reverence for the “past” can be easily witnessed by simply visiting the historic production complex, built before 1830.

This facility, which today houses a small winemaking museum as well, is currently used for the maturation of the winery’s finest red wines, which go into large Slavonian oak [barrels]. In years past, the wines were made and stored here. In 1893, after increases in production, Alfonso Pietrantonj, ancestor of the present owner, enlarged the capacity of the cellar by building, 14 metres beneath street level, two magnificent vats, holding a total of 1402 hectolitres.

Biggest. Barrel. Ever.

These tanks, which had no equal in the world, were a true architectural jewel of the period and testify to Alfonso’s courageous and creative spirit. Their most unusual characteristic was in fact the internal sheathing in Murano glass tiles, which has been admirably preserved and can still be admired, thanks to a convenient entrance-way to one of the vats. The cellars preserve as well fascinating equipment from the ancient distillery that produced a superb aquavit, an activity that the winery continued until 1930, thanks to Nicola Pietrantonj, the first Abruzzo winemaker to graduate, in 1889, from the Regia Scuola in Conegliano, in the Veneto. A renowned winemaking expert, he was responsible for growing and strengthening the winery’s production from the second half of the 19th century on.

Come for a tasting!

Of particular interest too are the old equipment and tools for working the vines and making wines, such as the first crusher-destemmer, dating to the early 20th century, and two imposing wooden wine presses from the 18th century. Crossing the family garden, one returns to the current main production facility where the entire production process is carried out, from fermentation and ageing, to bottling and storage of the wines.

Here, in the underground cellars, are the striking and venerable centuries-old [barrels], in sizes ranging from 32 to 365 hectolitres, crafted of oak and walnut in 1870 by local artisans. Thanks to careful renovations, they are still in use today. The modern winemaking facility rises alongside; it employs the most state-of-the-art technology for vinification, storage, and bottling, with every operation focused on preserving and maximizing the individual qualities of each grape variety. Of particular importance is the considerable investment that went into temperature control of the numerous stages of grape handling, wine maturation, and bottled wine storage.

My favorite souvenir!

The Pietrantonj production philosophy dictates that the maturation of red wines is carried out in oak casks of medium and large capacity, in order to ensure that the qualities of the grape varieties are faithfully preserved.

This combination of old and new — not to mention the Murano-glass-lined barrel —  is just part of what makes Pietrantonj so unique. And it works, because their line of wines, which includes Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, Trebbiano d’Abruzzo, Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo, Pecorino, Malvasia and Passito Rosso, are among the finest you will ever have — without breaking the piggybank.

So here’s another reason to come with us to Abruzzo. And another reason you’ll keep coming back!

Buon viaggio!

Linda Dini Jenkins

Linda Dini Jenkins is a card-carrying Italophile, travel planner, freelance writer, and amateur photographer. Travel is her passion, so writing about her travels just comes naturally. She hopes all her travelers find a way to express their joys, surprises, and fears as they travel and gives every traveler a nifty journal to help smooth the way. Learn more…

First of all, let’s get one thing straight. Your Italy and our Italia are not the same thing. Italy is a soft drug peddled in predictable packages, such as hills in the sunset, olive groves, lemon trees, white wine, and raven-haired girls. Italia, on the other hand, is a maze. . .  Italy is the only workshop in the world that can turn out both Botticellis and Berlusconis. ― Beppe Severgnini

The designation

Most tourists go to Italy to see the big cities: Rome, Venice, Florence, maybe Milan. If they are Rick Steves fans, they want to go to Liguria’s Cinque Terre. If they love the sea and don’t mind death-defying drives, they’ll go to the Amalfi Coast. Some folks find themselves in Cortona because they’ve read Frances Mayes’ book, Under the Tuscan Sun.

And all those places are fine. Beautiful, historic, breathtaking, worth seeing. But there is so much more to Italy. And that’s where the association Borghi piu belli d’italia comes in.

Anversa degli Abruzzi/Adopt-A-Sheep

Established in 2001 with the blessing of The National Association of Italian Municipalities (ANCI), “the most beautiful villages of Italy” is dedicated to promoting the small villages and towns that best represent the authentic, traditional Italy, respecting and, in some cases, reveling in their local culture and traditions. These can include the arts, cuisine, viniculture, historical structures, relationship with the land, etc. ANCI recognizes that fantastic art, culture, traditions and landscapes exist not only in the major cities, but throughout the entire country, and it hopes to draw travelers to these lesser-known areas and help them flourish.

Happy in Introdacqua

Here’s what villages need to have to qualify for the designation “Borghi più belli d’italia”:

• An historical borough can have no more than 2,000 residents and an entire municipality that cannot exceed 15,000 in population.
• The borough must be home to relevant architectural, certified either by the municipality itself or by the local representative of the Ministry for Cultural Heritage and Activities. It is essential that the borough consists mainly of historical buildings.
• The borough must be vetted and declared authentic and must commit, in case of acceptance, to maintain its appearance.

Castel del Monte — Italy’s “Little Tibet”

At present, there are 244 villages and small cities throughout Italy with this designation. The ones starred are the ones we’ve visited – and will continue to include on our tours – just in Abruzzo! Don’t worry, we’ll get to the other ones in time!

Here are the 23 borghi pui belli d’italia in the region of Abruzo . . . come and visit them with us soon!

Abbateggio

*Anversa degli Abruzzi

Bugnara

Caramanico Terme

*Castel del Monte

*Castelli

Citta Sant’Angelo

*Civitella del Tronto

*Introdacqua

Navelli

Opi

*Pacentro

Penne

*Pettorana sul Gizio

Pretoro

Rocca San Giovanni

*Santo Stefano di Sessanio

*Scanno

Tagliacozzo

*Villalago

Pietracamela

*Pescocostanzo

*Guardiagrele

Pettorano sul Gizio . . . in March!

Buon viaggio!

Linda Dini Jenkins

Linda Dini Jenkins is a card-carrying Italophile, travel planner, freelance writer, and amateur photographer. Travel is her passion, so writing about her travels just comes naturally. She hopes all her travelers find a way to express their joys, surprises, and fears as they travel and gives every traveler a nifty journal to help smooth the way. Learn more…

If your mother cooks Italian food, why should you go to a restaurant? — Martin Scorsese

We’ve been working feverishly here to put together a food and wine-oriented tour for you — with just enough history and even a little down time — to keep you all enchanted. Of course, it’s Italy, so how could you not be enchanted?

Here’s what we’ve got so far:

1. Walking tour of Sulmona
2. Visit to an olive oil mill from the 1700s, with a tasting
3. Cooking class at the wonderful Hotel Ovidio
4. Visit and tasting at the oldest winery in Abruzzo
5. Food-oriented walking tour of Guardiagrele
6. Visits to Scanno and Pacentro
7. Arrosticini BBQ lunch in Italy’s “Little Tibet”
8. Walk through Santo Stefano and then the amazing Rocca Calascio
9. Tour of the Abbey Morronese in Badia with the inimitable Novelia
10. Tour of Campo 78
11. Three-hour lunch experience at Costa del Gallo
12. A visit to the Pelino confetti museum and store

. . .  Plus a few other surprises if I can pull them off! What are you waiting for? Air fares are starting to drop now and it’s time to plan your fall getaway.

The price for everything you see here, plus local transportation and many other meals, is a mere $2,495 per person. Airfare is on your own. All I need is a check for $500 by July 15 to reserve your spot.

There are only 4 more spaces available, so please contact me soon or you’ll have to wait until next year!

Ci vediamo in Abruzzo!

Buon viaggio!

Linda Dini Jenkins

Linda Dini Jenkins is a card-carrying Italophile, travel planner, freelance writer, and amateur photographer. Travel is her passion, so writing about her travels just comes naturally. She hopes all her travelers find a way to express their joys, surprises, and fears as they travel and gives every traveler a nifty journal to help smooth the way. Learn more…