The 19th-century Italian diplomat and journalist Primo Levi said that the adjectives “forte e gentile” (strong and gentle) best describe the beauty of Abruzzo and the character of its people…
I am always enamored by folks who are as crazy about Abruzzo as I am. So when I was offered a chance to read and review Stuart Haines’ new walking guide about Abruzzo, I said yes without hesitation. Full disclosure here: I am neither an athlete nor a big walker and will probably never embark on any of the 20 kilometer (km) walks he’s carefully outlined. But I’m already considering some of the shorter ones for a future tour.
This is a gem of a small book. Called Walking in Abruzzo: Gran Sasso, Maiella and Abruzzo National Parks, and Sirente-Velino Park, Haines’ guide is published by Cicerone press out of the U.K. – which specializes in guides for walkers, cyclists, trekkers and mountaineers. This is a must-have book for all those who love to explore the wild regions of Abruzzo — and there are many, as it is known as “the green heart of Europe.” As a tour director who calls Abruzzo home for part of the year and who brings small groups of travelers there as often as possible, I know what the region is composed of: three national parks and a regional park that are simply stunning. Even an amateur walker like me can appreciate what Stuart writes:
Abruzzo is wonderful walking country. It is one of the wildest and least populated regions of Italy, with 169 peaks over 2000m, long mountain ridges, high plains and deep gorges, huge forests of native beech, oak and pine and gentle fertile valleys. The highest points in peninsular Italy and the southernmost glacier in Europe are all here.
This is a very well organized book, providing solid background information about the region, its history, its geography, its flora and fauna (brown bears! wolves! red deer! wild boar!), its food and drink, and even how to get there. And with lots of detailed maps and color photos, this is a book that’s as user-friendly as it is beautiful.
Incredibly, Stuart has created 40 different walks that span the entire region and that will appeal to all levels of walkers. Want a 2-hour, 4km walk in the Maiella? He’s got it. Feel like something more challenging, like a 7-hour, 25km walk in the Abruzzo National Park? He’s got that, too. His routes are all graded for difficulty (1= easy, 3= difficult) and vary from gentle easy going strolls to serious mountain expeditions. Most start and end in a village with at least a bar and a shop. GPS coordinates are provided and CPX tracks are available to download for free through the publisher’s website.
Each walk is painstakingly outlined, mapped, and described in detail, so walkers can decide for themselves which outing is best for them. I personally am intrigued by the walk that goes from Anversa to Castrovalva — two of my favorite villages — as well as the one that takes you around the Scanno town and lake loop. I see new shoes in my future!
As a novice hiker, one of my favorite things about this book is the attention that Haines pays to providing what he calls, “Advice for the Trail.” He covers everything: weather, what to take, how to behave when you encounter the inevitable sheep dogs or rockfalls, and what to do in case someone in your party requires a mountain rescue. There’s even an English-Italian glossary in the back of the book, along with two pages of very useful contact information.
Stuart Haines is no stranger to Abruzzo. Walker, mountain lover, writer and more, he has been exploring the region for more than a decade and even renovated a country property with his partner in Casa La Rocca in the heart of the region. You can even stay there.
Whether you’re an experienced walker and want to see first-hand the beauty of this largely untraveled region of Abruzzo or, like me, are familiar with the region, but only through the lens of a moving vehicle, this is a great little resource to have and learn from. Abruzzo is so worth exploring, and I hope Stuart’s book will bring more people there to share its beauty.
Walking in Abruzzo: Gran Sasso, Maiella and Abruzzo National Parks, and Sirente-Velino Park
Cicerone
$27.95
Linda Dini Jenkins is a card-carrying Italophile, travel planner, freelance writer, and amateur photographer. Travel is her passion, so writing about her travels just comes naturally. She hopes all her travelers find a way to express their joys, surprises, and fears as they travel and gives every traveler a nifty journal to help smooth the way. Learn more…
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