Will Fly for Cheese

Wine and cheese are ageless companions, like aspirin and aches, or June and moon, or good people and noble ventures. — M.F.K. Fisher

I’m off to bella italia soon and one of the things I’ve been thinking about — especially since I just wrote a guest blog post about Sulmona and food for L’Esperta — is cacio e pepe. It’s a local Abruzzese pasta dish with only three ingredients: pasta, black pepper and pecorino romano cheese. No oil, no butter, no milk, no nothing. Just those three ingredients. Macaroni and cheese for grown-ups.

The amazing cacio e pepe!

The amazing cacio e pepe!

I had read about it long before I tried it last fall at Ristorante Il Vecchio Muro in the centro storico di Sulmona. They add a little twist to it by serving it in a fried cheese “bird’s nest.” I’m a firm believer that you can’t have too much cheese. Well, actually, I’m no longer very firm and maybe that’s why.

The wine that Ms. Fisher talks about will also be consumed in some quantity: the noble Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, the crisp Trebbiano d’Abruzzo, the rosy Cerasuolo and the miraculous Pecorino (the wine, not the cheese, although I can imagine consuming both at the same time).

Once we hit forty, women only have about four taste buds left: one for vodka, one for wine, one for cheese, and one for chocolate. — Gina Barreca

I have no idea who Gina Barecca is, but I love this quote. It used to be totally true for me, but I’ve since given up on the vodka, so now I concentrate on the wine, cheese and chocolate. I’m so glad that the Pelino people in Sulmona have used a bit of chocolate in some of their marvelous confetti. I’m looking forward to that, too!

Confetti has been a tradition in Sulmona for more than 500 years and you can’t walk

Candy coated almond flowers spring up everywhere!

Candy coated almond flowers spring up everywhere!

down the main corso without practically tripping over displays of candy flowers. What a way to go!

The poets have been mysteriously silent on the subject of cheese. — Gilbert K. Chesterton

I’ll try to work on that while I’m over there, assuming I don’t OD on cheese, chocolate or wine! And, people: try to make spring happen while I’m away . . .grazie mille!

Buon viaggio!

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FROM THE BLOG

November 1 is Reclamation Day

There was only one sign for pumpkin spice anything, and it was at the train station in Rome. Starbucks, of course, and my apologies to all who love the fall-themed brew. But then there was the Trick or Treat sign on the Irish pub (!) in my Italian town of Sulmona. It was jarring. Halloween hasn’t yet come to Italy in a big way, and that’s fine with me. Call me a grump. Because the rest of the year (as most of you know) I live in Salem, Massachusetts where, over the past 20 years, Halloween starts in early September and runs through mid-November. The crowds are staggering – nearly one million people come into town on Halloween weekend alone.…

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